Arco Rockmaster Festival

Two weeks ago, I competed in the famous Arco Rockmaster Festival. During 4 days long, 4 disciplines are represented: bouldering, speed, lead and dual (for lead finalists only).

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Last year, I had decided to compete in all disciplines except for speed (obviously, I’m not a speed climber^^). I’d been competing for 4 days in a row and managed to sneak into the finals in bouldering and lead. I ended up at the 9th place in bouldering, 7th place in lead and 8th place in dual after missing the buzzer.

This year, I was more reasonable and decided to only focus on lead. Because I wasn’t world ranked in the top 6, I had to pass a qualifiying round  where the top 6 climbers got a ticket for the actual Rockmaster. 

Qualifiers went pretty well for me with a 2d place finish just behind my friend Charlotte Durif. Here is the video of my 2d qualifier:

The day after were the bouldering qualifiers, meaning a rest day for Sean and I. We went the to the beautiful Riva Del Garda lake and enjoyed the sun all afternoon.

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The day after, back to serious stuff with lead semi-finals. My goal was to make finals, but I knew the route would be crazy hard and given all the strong climbers there, I would have to fight (very) hard. 

_DSC4631The route was even harder than I expected: no feet, big moves and sloppy holds! Everything I love…! In the end, I managed to pass the first crux but after a big mistake, l fell early in the middle of the route. I thought for sure it wouldn’t be enough, but luck was on my side that day because a few girls fell before me and I made it into finals in 7th place !! Yay!!

Just after semis, back to isolation for the 20min work session of the finals route. One after the other, the 9 finalists tried the route. It was really hot and humid, and the route felt SO hard. I think all of us got kind of scared to climb it again in the evening!

_DSC5702A few hours later, it was time to for the real finals. Personally, there was a big move that I couldn’t do at the 4th draw… That’s why I psyched myself up and got ready to try as hard as I could. I climbed through the first cruxes, really surprised that it felt that much easier. I was so happy and feeling so comfortable that I even waved to the crowd! Everything was going perfectly…

…Until my foot slipped. Nooooooo 🙁 I brutally woke up from my dream climb and finished at the 7th place. Too bad because I was feeling surprisingly very strong, but I guess it’s okay because I had lots of fun climbing.

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The reason why I really wanted to be in finals was because all the lead finalists get to compete the day after in the DUAL. The principle is simple: on an identical route, the climbers race against each other (after a qualifying run that establish the duals).

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Because I finished 2d of the qualifying run with a time of 188s, I got to do my first dual against the climber that finished at the 7th place. I won without having to hurry too much. I lost my next dual against Dinara Fakhritdinova with a time of 112s. I was then in lead for 3rd place against Mina Markovic:

Really psyched to have gone that far in the competition, I gave everything I had and even outdistanced Mina during the first 3/4 of the route until a f***ing clip. She caught up on me and after a very close finish, she won with a half second on me. I was so frustrated. I was in such a good rythm until my mistake. But oh well, that’s what the dual is, being able to keep going despite obstacles! I finally ended up at the 4th place, frustrated to be at the foot of the podium, but still quite happy with my performance 🙂

Mina Mathilde

In the end, it’s true that I could’ve had better results on the whole competition, but I had SO much fun that it doesn’t even matter! I already can’t wait for next year!

Coming next: The Adidas Rockstars on the 19th and 20th of September!

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